By P.A. Geddie
In the late 1800s, trains filled the air with melodic background noise for the families of railway laborers living among the piney woods of the Upper East Side of Texas. The rhythm of the Texas and Pacific Railroad steam engine trains — running parallel to Highway 59 between Marshall and Texarkana — made its way into a genre of music called boogie woogie. Two other influences were ragtime — made famous by composer and pianist Scott Joplin who was born and raised in the region — and jazz, which entered the area via steamboats bringing people and goods to Jefferson from New Orleans.
Vintage train cars add to the nostalgic ambience at the Marshall Texas & Pacific Railway Depot and Museum.
From ragtime, jazz, and boogie woogie, came rock and roll, country, and other exceptional music from generations of musicians who helped define the cultural heritage of the area, including the Eagles’ Don Henley, folk singer Huddie “Leadbelly” Ledbetter, gospel musician Stuart Hamblen, blues legends Aaron T-Bone Walker, Omar Sharriff, Floyd Dixon, and many others.
A striking, beautifully restored red-brick building at the end of Washington Street in Marshall is home to the Texas & Pacific Railway Museum, which preserves the area’s railroad history. There is a picnic area next to vintage train cars, a popular location for nostalgia and photography. The building is also an active Amtrak stop for passengers.
The Marshall Texas & Pacific Railway Depot and Museum preserves the area’s railroad and music history. There is a picnic area next to vintage train cars, a popular location for nostalgia and photography. The building is also an active Amtrak stop for passengers.
Across the tracks is the three-story red-brick historic Ginocchio Hotel building originally constructed in 1896 next to the railway station. Today, it is home to The Ginocchio, where diners enjoy plates of steak and seafood and sip on glasses of house-brewed Boogie Woogie Golden Ale while watching the trains pass.
The three-story Ginocchio building across from the train station in Marshall first served as a hotel and is now a fine dining restaurant. The Ginocchio invites diners to enjoy plates of steak and seafood and sip on glasses of house-brewed Boogie Woogie Golden Ale while watching the trains pass.
Venturing out along State Highway 154 northwest of Marshall, visitors find the Bear Creek Smokehouse General Store, filled with premium smoked meats, gift items, apparel, cookbooks, sweets, and jarred goods.
Continuing out that direction through beautiful rolling hills are two destination vineyards and wineries: Enoch’s Stomp and Walkers Mill Vineyard & Winery. They have tasting rooms, provide tours and winemaking classes, host live music, and serve gourmet dishes that pair well with the wines.
South of Marshall, along Highway 59, is Panola County with the town of Carthage as its county seat. The Texas Country Music Hall of Fame in Carthage honors those born in Texas who made outstanding contributions to country music. Within the 13,000-square-foot building are exhibitions and fun artifacts that immerse visitors into a bygone era, jukebox and all.
An exhibit dedicated to Panola County-born Tex Ritter takes up about a quarter of the building space. It depicts the story of his life from farm boy to popular music icon and includes many collections of his cowboy tunes and his work on Broadway, radio, and in film.
Fellow Panola County famous son Jim Reeves is also honored at the Texas Country Music Hall of Fame. On a one-acre, tree-covered plot of ground three miles east of Carthage on U.S. Highway 79, visitors find a life-size sculpture marking the grave of the late singer with the velvety voice.
“Cherokee Cowboy” Ray Price of the region is remembered at the Texas Country Music Hall of Fame as well.
Headed northeast toward the Louisiana state line, drivers find a Texas State Tourism Center at Waskom that offers travel ideas in the area. From there, a trip over to an unincorporated spot in the road called Jonesville takes travelers a step back in time at the T.C. Lindsey & Co General Store. In operation since 1847, the 3,000-square foot store with a creaky screen door holds museum-quality old-fashioned items as well as modern-day merchandise. Shoppers find a collection of children’s shoes in original boxes, brand-new blue jean overalls, and replicas of women’s bonnets in the clothing section. Popular sections in the store include the front facade of an old post office window, old candy machines, the slice-your-own cheese wheel, and a fireplace with an inviting rocking chair nearby.
North of Jonesville is the mystical 25,000-acre Caddo Lake, draped with Spanish moss from towering bald cypress trees among a maze of bayous. Some of the cypress trees in the swamp are more than 400 years old. Activities like fishing, kayaking, canoeing, camping, hiking, and boat tours are available from Caddo Lake State Park and in the unique marinas in the tiny towns of Uncertain and Karnack. The Caddo Lake National Wildlife Refuge is also in the area and welcomes visitors on hiking and horseback riding trails and to wildlife observation areas.
Karnack is the childhood home of Lady Bird Johnson. A State Historical Marker in her honor stands on TJ Taylor Avenue in Karnack. TJ Taylor is Thomas Jefferson Taylor, Lady Bird’s father. Born Claudia Alta Taylor in 1912, Lady Bird was First Lady of the United States from 1963 to 1969 during the presidency of her husband, Lyndon B. Johnson. She was notably well educated for a woman of her era and known as a shrewd manager and investor. Lady Bird bought a radio station, followed by a TV station, which generated revenues that made them millionaires. As First Lady, she interacted directly with Congress, something that was not done before, even employing her own press secretary. She attributed her love of the outdoors to growing up shy and often alone in the piney woods. A fan of wildflowers and a lifelong advocate for city and highway beautification projects, she promoted the Highway Beautification Act informally known as “Lady Bird’s Bill.” She also pushed her husband to support the Head Start Program to help low-income children. Before her death on July 11, 2007, Lady Bird received America’s two highest civilian honors: the Presidential Medal of Freedom and the Congressional Gold Medal.
Outside the Jefferson Hotel in historic downtown Jefferson.
It is a short drive from Caddo Lake along the Big Cypress Bayou to Jefferson in Marion County. The city welcomes visitors as they cross the Howe Truss train trestle, which puts on a light show every evening from dusk to dawn. With reported sightings of the elusive Bigfoot in the area, guests find signs and statues for photo opportunities. The Excelsior House Hotel is located downtown, the oldest hotel in continuous operation in Texas. Since its opening in 1858, famous guests who stayed there include Ulysses S. Grant, Oscar Wilde, Rutherford B. Hayes, Lady Bird Johnson, and Steven Spielberg. A New Orleans-style fountain courtyard is a favorite spot for special events or as a relaxing place to sit and enjoy the serenity.
Across the street is the historic Jefferson Hotel, with a massive collection of antique furnishings and an abundance of ghost stories.
While Amtrak’s passenger train doesn’t stop in Jefferson, city leaders carefully preserved the mid-1800s railway era feel in several locations. At The Excelsior House Hotel is The Atalanta, once a private parlor car for railroad developer Jay Gould. It has a luxurious interior with four staterooms, a lounge, dining room, kitchen, butler’s pantry, and ballroom.
Visitors enjoy an hour-long ride on the Historic Jefferson Railway. A vintage train goes through several miles along the shores of the Big Cypress Bayou and through dense forests. From the train, visitors view an old sawmill and blast furnace, natural beauty, and occasional wildlife sightings.
South of Jefferson is the Port Jefferson History & Nature Center with walking trails along the Big Cypress Bayou. There are several art installations for viewing and a honeybee hive and other exhibits.
Several bike routes are popular with those looking for day excursions from the historic downtown area.
The rich and diverse history of Jefferson is told through numerous factual and romantic accounts, including those that describe its dramatic rise to prosperity during the mid-1800s as the states’ largest and most significant riverport. Jefferson erupted into a boomtown with the help of a genteel, graceful society of successful families, a host of nefarious opportunists, and a rich assortment of eclectic individuals looking for a new life.
Early settlers buried in the historic Oakwood Cemetery include Diamond Bessie, outlaws Jesse Robinson and Bill Rose, and German immigrant Kate Woods who first owned the Excelsior Hotel.
In nearby New Prospect Cemetery is the grave of a woman called the “Angel of Bataan.” Born in Jefferson on April 4, 1916, Hattie Brantley was a lieutenant and nurse in the U.S. Army at the start of America’s involvement in World War II and was stationed in the Philippine Islands when the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor. Taken hostage, she looked after prisoners at the University of Santo Tomas, including survivors of the Bataan Death March, until early 1945. When she retired in 1969 as a lieutenant colonel after nearly 30 years of service, she was the last Army prisoner-of-war nurse from World War II in uniform.
Two miles north of Jefferson, on Highway 59, sits a beautiful piece of land that is home to more than 80 animals at Lonesome Dove Drive-Thru Safari & Petting Zoo. Alpaca, bison, and red deer graze alongside donkeys, camels, and wildebeests on sixty-five acres of terrain amid picturesque pines.
Headed west from Jefferson, travelers find the beautiful Lake O’ the Pines on Big Cypress Bayou with 144 miles of shoreline. Visitors enjoy renting boats, dining at area restaurants, fishing, swimming, hiking, and camping.
On the west side of the lake, guests arrive at Thomas Falls Outdoor Adventures just outside of Ore City, which features floating barrels, a broken bridge, wall climbing, a ropes cross challenge, waterfall slide, Tom Sawyer raft race, and zip-line water plunge.
North of Lake O’ the Pines is Morris County with Daingerfield as its county seat. The town offers a seasonal farmers’ market, local parks, a movie theater, several restaurants, main street shops, and places to stay. Daingerfield State Park, known for its colorful trees in the fall, hiking trails, birdwatching, picnic areas, swimming, boating, fishing, and camping, is a favorite vacation choice for many. West of Daingerfield is Greer Farm, an authentic rustic destination getaway. Using sustainable agriculture techniques, the owners produce meats, berries, jams, sauces, and syrups. Log cabins provide lodging for overnight stays and the on-site chef gives farm-to-fork cooking classes by appointment.
Other notable towns in Morris County are Naples and Omaha. Established by railroad tracks in the 1880s, Naples offers visitors several places to shop and eat on one side of the tracks and to taste local wine from Red Road Vineyard and Winery on the other side. The quiet drive to Naples on U.S. Highway 67 features beautiful backroads scenery.
In Omaha, visitors find area history at a museum and enjoy local shops and eateries.
Entering Cass County, travelers come to the tiny town of Avinger, lined with quaint antique stores perfect for a short stroll before dining at the award-winning Five D Cattle Company Steakhouse. The restaurant has a full bar, bands that play regularly, and a dance floor.
Murals depict the region’s music-heavy influences. “Welcome, Music City Texas” by artist Brad Attaway greets people to Linden.
Heading east back to the Boogie Woogie Highway, travelers find the town of Linden, the county seat of Cass County. Built in 1859, the three-story Classical Revival-style courthouse there is the oldest one in continuous operation in Texas. Linden is home to Music City Texas Theater, which presents quality entertainment throughout the year.
Eagles’ legend Don Henley grew up in Linden and in 2015 released a solo album called Cass County to honor the region that nurtured him during his formative years. Linden, with neighboring towns Avinger and Hughes Springs, has hosted the Wildflower Trails of Texas festival for more than 50 years. Every spring, the communities celebrate wildflowers with an art show, concerts, and food.
The Pleasant Hill Quilters of Linden offer a glimpse into a classified American past. Clad in colorful handmade bonnets and aprons, this group of women works to decode and preserve a cryptic fragment of history, explaining how multitudes of people escaped slavery. Quilt codes during the slavery era were hand-stitched images that sent messages to help slaves seeking their freedom. The quilters perform and present their art in Linden and across Texas and surrounding states.
North of Linden is Atlanta. The Atlanta Historical Museum captures the area’s history, including an exhibit for Bessie Coleman, who was born there and became the first woman of African and Native American descent to earn a pilot’s license. Known for performing aerobatics, her nickname was “Brave Bessie” and she encouraged women and minorities to reach for their dreams. Her story continues to inspire people around the world.
Susanna Clark is another celebrity with ties to Atlanta. The wife of singer-songwriter Guy Clark, and an artist in her own right, she is best known as the muse to him and others, including legendary songwriter Townes Van Zandt. After her death, her family scattered some of her ashes in a field where she played as a child near her beloved home in Atlanta.
One more famous connection is comedian and talk-show host Ellen DeGeneres. While her time in Atlanta was brief — she arrived as a teen and graduated high school there before moving on to fame — she often mentions those years as being the time she discovered the value of making people laugh.
Right next to Atlanta is Queen City and between there and Texarkana is Wright Patman Lake. It is a popular location for outdoor fun and wildlife viewing, including wintering bald eagles, pelicans, and various migratory ducks.
There is no shortage of fun for outdoor enthusiasts visiting the Texarkana area. Peaceful lakes, golf courses, dog parks, walking trails, a water park, and a multi-purpose playground for kids are a few of the options available. There is also a discovery museum with interactive exhibits for all ages and a popular antique car museum.
A tribute to ragtime genius and Pulitzer Prize winner Scott Joplin in Texarkana.
The Lindsey Railroad Museum has art displays that cover Texarkana’s one hundred thirty-eight-year history, which includes the city’s foundation by the Texas & Pacific Railroad. The museum includes stories about the railroads, memorabilia, and a hands-on section for kids.
Texarkana’s rich history in the arts and entertainment are alive in renovated historic buildings. Silvermoon on Broad features an 1885 Art Deco parlor, an outdoor courtyard with stage, a great hall, and the Silvermoon Theatre presents performances throughout the year. Silvermoon Children’s Theatre has three main productions every year and other arts opportunities for kids.
The AR Municipal Auditorium is adorned with Tiffany glass windows and noted for many historic star performances, including Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Conway Twitty, Fats Domino, and Jerry Lee Lewis.
The historic Perot Theater was built in 1924. Originally known as the Saenger Theatre, it was renamed after native son Ross Perot stepped in to restore it in Italian Renaissance style. The one-time movie house has a storied history of live performers, including Will Rogers and Annie Oakley. Today it continues to host concerts, musicals, and other productions, and is the home venue for the Texarkana Symphony Orchestra.
The Museum of Regional History is the oldest brick building in Texarkana. It showcases agriculture, civil rights, Caddo pottery, and the area’s rich music history. It is one of four structures in the Texarkana Museums System. The others are Discovery Place Interactive Museum, the Ace of Clubs House, and the P.J. Ahern Home. The Museum of Regional
History also houses Texarkana’s visitor center, a good first stop for people exploring the region.
Organized in 1916, the historic, inviting Bankhead Highway enters Texas at Texarkana. Known as the Broadway of America as the country began paving highways, the Bankhead Highway was the first all-weather transcontinental highway in the U.S. running from Washington D.C. to San Diego. The portion that ran through Northeast Texas was once a major roadway that roughly corresponds to today’s U.S. Highways 67 and 80. It forever altered the development and cultural heritage of the region. After leaving Texarkana, it passes through Mount Pleasant, Mount Vernon, Sulphur Springs, Greenville, Royse City, Rockwall, and other small towns across the Upper East Side of Texas.
Many locations are in the National Register of Historic Places and the trail is worthy of an adventurous drive. Several old gas stations still stand and demonstrate the variety of architectural styles seen in diners, cafes, motels, and museums. Other areas highlight old bridges, culverts, roadside parks, and other parts of the roadway that made travel easier. The Texas Historical Commission has a mobile tour and maps available for travelers to enjoy the sites online from home or on a road trip.